Mangalorean Swag Pop-Up at Sara Soda: Unmissable, Satiating Cuisine from Mangalore (available only till the 17th of June, 2018)
Mangalore is undoubtedly one of India’s food capitals - a rich history of culinary variations, good produce and splendid tea and coffee, an array of spices. One of the major ports on India’s western coast that marks the southern end of the riveting Konkan region, it offers a mix of Konkani and southern delights, imbibing cuisines into its own distinctive multi-cultural persona that has been enriched by years of trade and exchange.
I’ll keep it simple: Sara Soda’s pop up does justice to Mangalore. It was absolutely heartening and satiating to delve into some home-style Mangalorean cuisine the night before, with trademark dishes done just right. Home chef Divya Shetty brings to us gems from her kitchen that emanate the goodness of coconut, curry leaves and spices - the essentials. Simple, wholesome food done beautifully. The service throughout the meal was smooth and organised, with the always smiling Madhuri Jadhav accompanying us and ensuring everything was met, and Chef Danesh carefully explaining the finer nuances of each dish and recommending us what to have and how, while Chef Hema and the kitchen team made sure each dish was perfect.
The menu will make any Mangalore fan ecstatic, and for those who haven’t tried this food before, this is probably one of the best places in Pune to savour this cuisine. Surely, if you’re around till the 17th of June, do not miss this offering ‘cause it’s surely one of the best pop ups in recent times. Paired with the cheerful ambience of Sara Soda, itself a stellar Goan restaurant, the combination is sensational. For those with PEO cards, the PEO offer for this pop-up is an absolute steal.
Going a la carte, the Mangalore pop-up serves up some favourites - Ghee Roast, Sukka (both available in chicken, prawns, mutton, crab), home-style Suran fry, Pullu Manchi (Bangda for the fish crazy, Kingfish as an added option), Kori Rutti. Paired with these are five cocktails that meld kokum, chilli, cardamon, pineapple beautifully with alcohols.
The soothing Panaka was a great welcome drink to begin with - lemon juice with salt, pepper and cardamon.
-Suran Fry: Served first up, this is exactly what a Konkani home would lunch on on a day when ‘non-veg isn’t allowed’. All my childhood Suran and Batata have been substitutes for fish fry, and if made well, they are better than substitutes. A simple rub of turmeric, red chill, tamarind on biscuit shaped, slightly thick Suran cuts makes this a great meal at home, and at Sara Soda, an ideal accompaniment with cocktails or curry-rice.
-Chicken/Crab Sukka (Aajadina): small chunks of chicken, grated coconut, coarsely grounded coriander seeds that hit you with red chilli, pepper and a few other spices all cooked over a slow flame creating a pleasurable dish that is both dry and slightly wet thanks to the coconut. Usually goes wonderfully with Neer Dosa, you can also dive into it just as it is. We were also served the Crab version, which I loved even more; the marine flavour of sea crab encompassing the dish beautifully.
-Prawns Ghee Roast: From the ‘Shetty’ owned bars of Mumbai, all the way to Udupi and Mangalore, this is an audience favourite whose origins might be charted back to the coastal town of Kundapur. Meat rolled in a tangy paste of dry red chillies, tamarind, garlic and more; usually a dry dish where the quantum of paste can differ marginally, but the constant remains the immense ghee and punch of curry leaves that elevates the dish to something special. A perfect starter, goes well with neer dosa and even alcohol. We had the prawn version where the salty nature of the prawn brought alive the base. The garnish of roasted cashewnuts added a nice crunch.
-Kori Rutti: another favourite, a dish that can become addictive, spicy comfort food which deserves the eschewing of fork and spoon and the coming together of crushing fingers to bring out its flavours. You take the porous and thin crispy rutti made from boiled rice, pour the chicken curry over it, let it be for a bit, and enjoy the mix of sogginess and crispness together with the melding of coconut, spices and meat. It’s an unique dish, and I’m glad that it turned out great; just a meal with Kori Rutti and Ghee Roast alone can make your day.
-Ananas Rasayana: Pineapple is a major fruit in South Karnataka, and if you’re into experimenting with sweet curries, this beautiful sweet-tangy-creamy fruit curry will make you happy, apart from leaving a lovely aftertaste of tamarind, pineapple. Soaks beautifully with idlis and neer dosa.
-Puli Manchi (Bangda): Another trademark prep, a thick tangy paste of tamarind and red chillies houses a softly cooked fish seasoned with curry leaves. One of my personal favourites, the masala of the Puli Manchi was delightful and would make a great accompaniment to curry and boiled rice. For the seasoned fish eaters who don’t mind bones, the bangda variant provides a great escape to the coast.
-Accompaniments : Happala and Peere, Happala being small sized Udad dal papads with red chilli. Peere a subtle, flavourful dodka (ridge gourd) chutney that went well with the entire meal. The Neer Dosa was amazing.
Special mention for what was, at least for me, probably the standout from an already impeccable spread - the dessert - Doodhi Payasam. Doodhi Payasam with coconut and milk, garnished with roasted cashews and sumptuous ghee. An absolute winner, subtly sweet, expertly controlled and creamily homogenous; wish this stays on the menu for as long as possible.
Summarising the cocktails is exciting; the Pajji Munchi Vodka is perfect for vodka fans who like a bitter dryness and a kick of green chilli, the bitterness flowering with Angosutra. I loved the blend of flavours in the PurnapulLIT - a mix of gin, tequila, rum, vodka and kokum dash, with some amsul settled at the bottom that provide the sourness. The Yellaquilla is a pineapple/tequilla mix punctuated by cardamon, and probably the cocktail with the most homeliest vibe. The Currijito blends curry leaves with the goodness of sprite, rum and lime while the peculiar and sweet Gines Bonda, served in a coconut, merges tender coconut beautifully with gin and sugar. Options for a variety of taste preferences ensure a complete meal.
The dishes served during this pop-up are a great introduction to the region. Divya Shetty is herself from Udupi, and if it wasn’t for Sara Soda, we would’ve never been privileged to try her splendid creations. Rarely have I felt so satisfied after a meal had outside of home, and I’d imagine that this pop-up is the closest you can get to having home-made Mangalorean food.
Pop-up ends on 17th June.
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