I walked into this cozy little place because after reaching McLeod Ganj and enquiring about good food places, this one was strongly recommended. And Google reviews were elaborate, personal and sounded genuine. Later, I'd find out for myself why people gave such reviews to this place.
I went there first on the day before Diwali 2023, and Kanika's warm welcome felt spontaneous and delightful. It was like someone dear had come home.
She tells you about what she offers, that paranthas are their speciality, and that she uses organic raw material.
And in a minute, you place your order with confidence. "Sukku Kaapi" you say, as coming to the hills has given you a bad cold, and she gives exactly what you need on that cold morning. A hot stream of liquid love for your aching throat.
Then you say, "okay let's eat paneer parantha". She says, "okay if you are not lactose intolerant, can I give you a little kheer on the house -- it's our way of welcoming". You say yes, and in a small katori comes the first solid taste of love.
And she begins to slow cook the parantha, letting you work, but intermittently asking about your preferences, tastes, likes etc. It's like sitting at home and working--your mom or sister or uncle comes in and chats for a bit, and you go back to work and then you take a stretch and call out to your father and say something...A bond is slowly established, like food, cooked on slow fire, smeared with Desi ghee, hot and alluring ..
There, it's on a plate in front of you with a special chutney on the side. "Eat it, and tell me" , she says. As you take the first bite of love, she sits down and talks about life--and you both share stories, some laugh.
"Eat, before it gets cold" she says in between. It is indeed the best parantha that I have had in so many years. So...
There are dogs around, all with foreign and desi names -- so befitting the flow of life in Dharmashala-- Freddy, Chottu, Luna, Wilson-Ram...
Kanika and her best friend Ankur, who volunteers at the Cafe, love these strays and have a special bond with them, too. And you begin to love them too.
More people come in, everyone is welcomed the same way.
"Tomorrow is Diwali", Ankur says, "how should we use these marigolds?" You share some ideas on hanging the garlands as if you have been around there for ages .
So we agree to meet the next morning, Diwali. And there, as soon as you reach you are drawn into Kanika's self-made ritual of respecting the elements -- prithvi, ap, vayu, Tejas, akash. And sweets, til-gud--are shared on the house.
And then she makes a special fruit salad with chia seeds in coconut milk -- see pic. And then you say, "let's try muli parantha today"--"yes, good choice, radish is in season," she encourages.
You can see the muli parantha in the pic--she uses the leaf also. It is aha! and wah!
Now, I must go back and try the special Ragi veg soup. And aloo parantha, and maybe the egg cheese omlette too....
Till then, it's love at every bite. Indeed. Kanika and Ankur, may your tribe thrive--you are what they call 'the salt of the earth'.
See you soon 💖
JFYI: Kanika's mandatory off days are Wednesday and Thursday. And the Cafe is open from 10.30 am to 5.30 pm on all other days.
An error has occurred! Please try again in a few minutes